JDM Honda Integra XSi Specifications
The Honda Integra was the successor to the rather odd Honda Quint, a five-door hatchback off the Accord platform and using bodywork from the Honda Civic which was known outside Japan as the Honda Quintet. It was also briefly sold in Australiabadged as a Rover, as was the Quintet.
It was introduced in 1985 as the Honda Quint Integra, and was available in either a 3 door or 5 door bodystyle or a four-door sedan. A DOHC 16v engine was optional, which was revolutionary technology for a car in its class at the time.
In 1989 the second-generation Integra was released. The five-door hatchback was discontinued, while the sedan and three-door hatchback continued to be available. Honda's VTEC system was introduced in the XSi and RSi models.
In 1994, a restyled third generation was introduced. This generation was available in various trim packages including the LS, GS, GS-R, and ultimately, the Type R in 1996. All engines were DOHC 1.8 liter fours, but the GS-R added VTEC (Honda's variable valve timing system) and a dual-stage intake manifold to produce 170 hp. The Type-R was a limited production factory racer, making 195 hp from its hand-built engine.
The fourth generation Integra, produced from 2003 onwards, has an entirely new 2.0 L engine with much more potential.
Befittingly, the DA6 & DA8 became very popular and even till today, there are still many satisfied owners happily using their Integra XSi & RSi. Subsequent VTEC Hondas, especially the EG6, DC2 and of course the mighty Type-Rs have hogged the limelight but the DA6 & DA8 Integra will continue to hold a unique, very special place in Honda's history as the first VTEC-Honda.
The top-end Integra XSi/RSi was produced from 1989 till 1991 before receiving the 2G 170ps B16A and a very mild body revision. As a result, XSi/RSi with the 1G 160ps B16A are now already in their second decade of use. How well will they hold up to age ? Of particular concern would be how the 1G B16A itself will perform after more than 10 years of use.
In this new TOVA series, I will focus on this great model in detail, paying special attention to the question of how well 1G models are lasting their age. We start off this series in typical TOVA style, by looking at a relatively stock model.
Stock New Zealand Registered Integra XSi
Tamati who lives in New Zealand is a regular visitor to TOVA and credits me for giving him a lot of ideas for modifying his recently purchased pre-owned 1991 DA8 4-door Honda Integra XSi. The car was originally a used-import from Japan, re-registered in New Zealand and Tamati bought it over from the first New Zealand owner. In his email, Tamati told me he recently dyno'ed his car and sent me the dynochart. This started off a sequence of emails that provides me with the perfect set of materials to examine what a relatively stock 1991 Integra XSi, well looked after and in excellent condition, is capable of doing.
In terms of "modifications", Tamati's added the following to his engine:
K&N FilterCharger Air Filter
Resonator removed, replaced with a custom underbody ram-air pipe
Throttle body heating by-passed
Engine timing advanced by 2 degrees (to 17 degrees)
The K&N filter is a direct replacement drop in model - remove the original stock panel filter and put the higher flow K&N in. The higher flow is claimed to enable more air into the engine, thus enabling more power. But a rather more significant mod would be the removal of the resonator as that would really help in high rpm air-flow. But even including the K&N filter, Tamati's modifications to the engine are in actual fact very mild so the engine itself can really be considered relatively stock.
This stock "status" carries over to the rest of the car. The suspension - springs and shocks are standard but as with all enthusiasts, the wheels are replaced with larger 15" x 7" Ensure Racing wheels and 195/50VR15 tyres - stock DA8 tyres are only 195/60 HR 14 so the larger rims are popular to add an aggressive look to the car.
In the well-kept interior, MOMO items replaced the stock steering wheel, shift knob and harness pads. The shifter itself was changed to a Dynamik Tuning Adjustable short-throw shift. An A'PEXi Rev SpeedMeter (RSM) is supplements the stock JDM speedometer (which stops at 180kph) showing vehicle speed in digital format. The RSM can also do standing start acceleration timings; 0-100kph, 0-400m, etc as well as lap-timing. Also very apparent from the photos, Tamati's DA8 interior is in exemplary condition - certainly not looking at all like it's gone through 10 years of use !
The Dyno-Pack Dynamometer
Tamati's car was measured on a New Zealand designed DynoPack dyno. I first got to know about the DynoPack from Doug (of HONDATA fame). The DynoPack works along the same principle as the DynoJet but instead of measuring power by having the wheels turn a huge drum, the driving wheels are removed and an electrically retarded measuring device is mounted directly to the wheel lugs. DynoPack claims an extremely high sensitivity - the ability to measure the apparent loss in power when the car's headlights are switched on !
The dyno run itself was conducted with the bonnet down and a large fan blowing air against the front of the car. A lot of enthusiasts feels that this is more representative of the actual air-flow conditions that the car will experience in real life. Nevertheless I personally feel this method of dyno-ing will give a less than absolutely accurate reading because I think that a fan will never be able to generate air-flow equivalent to that when a car is moving at speeds of up to for e.g. ~140kph (the speed equivalent to 8000rpm at 3rd gear on an Integra XSi).
It was also raining at the time of the dyno run, which was conducted in a workshop with the roller doors open and an outside temperature of about 16-17 degrees Celcius. The low ambient air temperature will give a beneficial effect to the absolute power output from the car (irregardless of the SAE corrections), maybe as much as 3-4ps! The car was running on RON-98 petrol for the dyno-run.
The Dyno Result
The DynoPack registered the following results :
Peak Power = 101.2 kW ( 137.6 ps ) at 7584rpm
Peak Torque = 133.8 Nm ( 13.6 kg/m ) at 6968rpm
As we have seen from our Civic series, a 1st generation B16A with a manual gearbox will be expected to dyno at 160ps less 15% power loss due to the gearbox. This of course works out to 136ps at the wheels. Tamati's car dyno'ed at close to 138ps at the wheels. While the engine's power output benefits from very low ambient air temperature, dyno-ing with the bonnet closed will degrade power output so the two conditions will actually neutralize each other. This means the minor mods to the engine will have a nett though very small effect in increasing power output. With some nett gains expected from the mild mods, the 138ps at the wheels dyno result correlates very well with a relatively stock 1G B16A indeed.
Even more significant are the rpm points at which peak power and peak torque were measured. The peak power of 138ps was measured at 7584 or around 7600rpm. Peak torque was measured at 6968 or around 7000rpm. Honda's specified stock figures for the 1st Gen B16A are indeed (at the engine) 160ps at 7600rpm and 15.5kgm at 7000rpm. So, as can be seen, the peak power and torque points were measured at exactly the stock points as specified by Honda.
I think Tamati's dyno result is very significant; the car and engine, is already into its 2nd decade - 10 years of age. That it can still deliver the baseline reference power output including matching the stock spec'ed peak power and torque rpm points speaks very well for the durability and quality of the 1G B16A indeed.
Conclusion
Tamati's Integra XSi have demonstrated that a relatively stock 1G B16A if properly looked after and well kept will last extremely well, indeed even able to deliver power levels as good as if it is a brand new engine. As can be seen from the photos provided by Tamati, the interior of the car and the car itself looks very new.
This is very significant news for Integra XSi & RSi owners. As explained, 1G DA6/DA8 Integra XSi/RSi are well into their 2nd decade of use by now. But Tamati's example tells us that irregardless of age, a well looked after Integra XSi/RSi, properly maintained and exemplarily kept will run just as well as when it was brand new !
How To Replace Integra Main Fuel Relay
Engine cranks but does not turn over in hot weather? You may need to replace your Main Fuel Relay (FI).
You need to take off the knee panel of both driver and passenger side, then the center console. You will have to take off the metal panel behind the driver side knee panel as well. Right under the cluster you will see 2 relays, a smaller relay in the front and a bigger one in the back mounted together. The FI main relay is the bigger one in the back. Unplug it and put the new one on.
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The main fuel relay is located behind the driver's side knee panel.
Using a flat head screwdriver you can pry the circuit board from the plastic covering by pushing on the two tabs on the side.
Unplug the wire harness.
Pop out the new one and plug it back into place.
Metric Bolt Code Meanings
On metric ISO (International Standards Organization) bolts the numbers on the head refer to; example 8.8, 9.8, 10.9.......
The digits to the left of the decimal point indicate 1/100 of the ultimate tensile strength in Newton’s per square millimetre(N/mm).
The digits to the right of the decimal point indicate the ratio of yield strength to ultimate tensile strength.
Conversion factor;
One unit of stress 1 N/mm is equal to 145.037 psi
So a 10.9 metric ISO bolt would have a minimum ultimate tensile strength of 145,000 psi and a minimum yield strength to ultimate tensile strength of 130,000 psi.
If the numbers are underlined this refers to low carbon martensitic steel
So where does this leave us when referring to SAE standard bolts?
ISO 6.8 = SAE 2, don’t use on your car!
ISO 8.8 = SAE 5 or 120,000 psi minimum
ISO 10.9 = SAE 8 or 150,000 psi minimum
ISO 12.9 = NAS 624-644 National Aerospace Standard or 180,000 psi minimum
Now I don’t want to get into mechanical properties but if you must know 10.9 ISO bolts are generally medium carbon steel with additives such as Boron, Mn or Cr, quenched and tempered. Or alloy steel quenched and tempered.
Integra ECU Codes
ECU Codes.
Depending on which year your Teg is, there are two different ways to check your ECU code.
1990 and 1991 Tegs:
Your ECU is located under the carpet on the passenger side of the car. You have to pull back on the carpet to expose the ECU which is brass in color. There is a circular window on the face of it with red LED in it. This LED will blink and this is where you read your code.
To get the LED to blink, you must turn the car to the "ON" position but do not start it. The LED will blink with slow blinks and with fast blinks. If you have four slow and two fast, that is code 42.
1992 and 1993 Tegs:
Your ECU is located in the same spot as 90-91's but you won't be reading the code off the ECU. For you, you must jump a connector and then your Check Engine light will blink to tell you the code.
The connector you must jump is located under the glove box and should be green in color. How to jump -- Helms: Chapter 11 page 40
0 - ECU
1 - Oxygen Sensor
3 - MAP Sensor
5 - MAP Sensor
6 - Crank Angle
7 - Throttle Angle
8 - TDC Position
9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position
10 - Intake Air Temperature
12 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System
13 - Atmosphere Pressure
14 - Electronic Air Control
15 - Ignition Output Signal
16 - Fuel Injector
17 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
20 - Electronic Load Detector
22 - VTEC System Malfunction
23 - Knock Sensor
41 - O2 Sensor
43 - Fuel Supply System
45 - System Too Rich or Too Lean
48 - Primarry Heated O2 Sensor
54 - Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor
61 - Primary O2 Sensor Circuit
63 - Secondary O2 Sensor Circuit
67 - Catalyst System
70 - Automatic Transaxle
71-74 - Random Misfire
80 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation
86 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
90 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
91 - Fuel Tank Pressure Circuit
92 - Evaporative Emission Control System Insufficient
NOTE: Some trouble codes are not listed for certain models and some codes only apply to California cars.